Long time no hear from the Africans

by John Curnow on 8 Feb 2017 Not even sure how long it has been, to be exact. Let’s merely say a long, long time. Yet as we know, that terrific African tribe of intrepid explorers are always out there. Always seeking new destinations, sights, cultures, historical icons, dive spots, tastes, repair facilities, and anchorages. What a job, huh?!

Now like a lot of places dotted all over the globe, today’s locale is an outpost of a European country that once ruled the waves. It is in the South Atlantic Ocean, closer to Africa than South America, but still in the middle of nowhere in that sense. She’s a rocky, volcanic outcrop with super-green slopes, and lies almost bang smack on the 16th parallel (S), due West of Angola and East of Brazil’s State of Bahia. Together with Ascension and Tristan da Cunha she forms a little group with. Yep. It is St Helena.

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They put new, heavy-duty moorings in at James Bay in 2013. These are just below the main settlement of Jamestown, where there is some provisioning to be had, and some work can be done, too, but is more limited than the supplies. Many now use St Helena as a dropping off/collection point for crew/guest changes and/or parts, as there are daily, non-jet services to South Africa. The UK still services the island with Royal Mail, as well.

Being at latitude 16 means it is tropical climate, but it benefits from Sou’east Trades and the cold Benguela current coming up from the Southern Ocean, which all means it can get foggy and misty. St Helena is rich in history, as well, with Napoleon and Cook all stopping there. It is said Cook even planted the Norfolk Pines on the two hills either side of the 823m Diana’s Peak, to act as navigational aides.

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This is the island’s highest point, and along with Plantation House, for the Governor, Napoleon’s House (and tomb) at Longwood, High Knoll Fort, and the old tortoises that call St Helena home, they form the main sort of attractions.

There is more on offer however, and you can either go by 4WD or your tender to some of them. St Helena abounds with valleys, churches, fortifications, old cannons, history of many an era (both positive and less fortunate), and an amazing rock called, Bell Stone, that actually makes a sound when hit by another rock. Go figure. It was here back in Cook’s time and has been a hit with the tourists ever since. Yes, they have been coming for that long. Think of it all as a bit like a British Hawaii…

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Picnics, hiking, and snorkelling are on offer, and this is one place that will require you to step back in time to a slower, more friendly, considerate and courteous time. Lemon Valley is often referred to as the pick of the bunch, but if you’re in need of some serious slowing down, then St Helena could well be an opportunity in the waiting for you. Any place that requires you to acknowledge other cars as you go past, just has to be worth a decent layover on your voyages around the Atlantic, or the globe.

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