2019 Pacific Circuit Rally, so far...
by Nigel Richards / Island Cruising NZ 6 Oct 2019 09:50 UTC
2019 Pacific Circuit Rally © Nigel Richards
As I write this Varekai is anchored off Ilot Mato in the Southern lagoon of New Caledonia. The rest of the fleet are dispersed from Noumea to the Ile des Pins. The 2019 Pacific Circuit Rally is in its final few weeks after a spell bound voyage through the south west Pacific Islands of Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu and Now New Caledonia.
If you have been following the ICNZ Facebook page and the PredictWind fleet tracking page, you will have seen the endless list and images of impossibly beautiful anchorages, villages and locations. The rally this year has been so successful that we intend to repeat it again next year.
The Tongan leg saw the fleet arrive around the 4th June. The Big Mama Yacht Club put on a fabulous welcome for everyone, in the normal big Tongan way; food, music, dancing and even a fire show this year. But first the clearance into the Kingdom of Tonga. The officials came out to Pangaimotu Island and made the whole experience a relaxed one. Again this year Island Cruising NZ were able to secure permission to cruise through to Neiafu in the Vava'u group, via the Ha'pai group of islands without inter-area customs clearances at Pangai, Lifuka. Many of the fleet chose to explore the sandy anchorages of the central group before moving north to Vava'u. Limu, Ha'afeva and Uoleva were popular stops, as was Nomuka.
We held a rum punch, pot luck lunch on the beach at Port Maurelle. We had not been on the best weather list up to that point, but that day saw the temperatures soar. With time cracking on, many boat slipped away to enjoy the numerous anchorages found around the area. Great help to the fleet with all sorts of things; recycling, gas cylinder filling and numerous other stuff by Greg at the Tropicana Café.
The Mango Café team gave us a good send off dinner after providing the venue for clearance. Such a great bonus for being on the rally is the group clearances in
faraway places to make the experience seamless.
The fleet headed next for Fiji and a clearance arranged at Lomaloma, Vanua Balavu. Of course that is in the famous Lau Group on the eastern side of the country. Again this is by arrangement through ICNZ. The only other way to get to the Lau would be a clearance at Savusavu and a wait for a passing low to create a blip in the SE trades to nip across the Koro Sea. Fiji Customs, Immigration, Biosecurity and Health all came from the mainland for our arrival.
Interesting to see the fleet being cleared by Health inspector first, before the rest of the officials boarded each boat. That is how it should be do, rarely seen though. The Q flag came done indicating that the vessels were 'healthy' and safe to board.
Once the official procedures were completed many of the fleet headed off around to Mbavatu Harbour on the north side of the island. There was a blow expected to come through the Lau group, with forecasted winds in the gale force range. All of the 32 boats slipped in to Mbavatu and found a safe spot for wind and rain to pass by. Whilst there we were hosted by the Philps family, land owners of an 800acre estate that spans the northern part of Vanua Balavu. They organised guided walks through the land to the viewpoint over the Bay of Islands and Ship Cove, a tour of the homestead, in the process of rebuild after Cyclone Winston and then hosted a bonfire party at the Club House, in the warm rain! Fantastically, the Philp family have given permission for ICNZ members to walk the grounds, just make yourself known either at the Club House or the staff village up the hill.
From Mbavatu we made course for Susui village. Joshua, the village Mayor at Susui invited Island Cruising NZ to be welcomed into the village. After a memorable dinghy trip through the Hidden Lagoon, a natural wonder of water colours and beauty shrouded from the sea behind a rock formation, the village presented dancing and a gorgeous traditionally cooked meal. They prepare a speciality dish of spicy oysters, unbelievably tasty. With the weather still not giving us a hundred percent most of the fleet headed back north to ride out more strong winds. The bonus to that was the system passing south then created the blip in the trade winds to allow a trip south. But first the famous Bay of Islands! The coral head sitting at the non-navigable mouth of Ship Cove was superb and extremely healthy.
A few days exploring the area was spent by the fleet, with a mixture of snorkelling, SUP 's, kayaks and windsurfers. Skippers discussions had debated the next step for the rally. Options for north to Tavenui via the atolls and reefs in between were discussed, as was the more normal route south to Valuga (Falunga). The northern boats explored through reefs and islets of Malima, Williamsons and on up to Yanuca and Rabi, then down through the Tavenui anchorages to Savusavu for fresh supplies.
Whilst the southern boats took the easterly wind down to Valuga (Falunga), stops were made at Lakoba, Komo, Namuka-I-Lau and Yagasa Levu before entering the Valuga pass at slack water. The Sail South Pacific waypoints are extremely accurate for the way in, however still keep a sharp look out at the bow. Once inside the lagoon opens up to a magical wonderland for boaters! The main village at Monacake is the destination for sevusevu, the traditional Fiji offering to the village chief. Chief Simon received our sevusevu and welcomed us into the village.
Here at Valuga (Falunga) visiting yachts are hosted by a family; they become your guides and helpers in the area. Whilst we were there, the fleet were invited to the end of term school celebrations and the village also put on a feast and dancing.
From Valuga (Falunga), the southern fleet headed for Viti Levu via Totoya and Matuku Islands, then on to Kadavu and Beqa. Whilst in the north the boats were heading in two directions; some crossing the Vanua Levu barrier reef to the north side of Viti Levu and on to the western Fiji Cruising grounds. The others headed down the eastern coast of Viti Levu via Ovalau and and on to Suva. A great diversity of cruising.
Matuku's Lamati village anchorage is encircled by lush greenery, with foliage that appeared trade wind and cyclone damage free. The villagers will take you on guided walking tours to the surrounding hilltops; not for the faint hearted!! Locals trade vegetables and fruit happily as their island is only serviced infrequently by the mainland, so extra supplies are always welcome. Matuku grows the famous kava plant as well as the normal fare.
Astrolabe Reef provided the fleet with some outstanding manta ray experiences. They seem to have taken a trip around from the manta ray pass in the Yasawa group to entertain everyone. And a slice of luxury was experienced by some at the Kokomo Island resort on Yaukuvalevu. A six star resort offering daily packages for cruisers. Unless there was a famous guest in house! The fleet were now starting to converge into the western side of Viti Levu for a meet up on the beach at Musket Cove for some fun and games.
Next issue we will report on the second half of the Pacific Circuit Rally for 2019.